Preservative-free skin products are becoming an increasingly popular category in skincare. And why not? With commonly used preservatives becoming one of the most controversial chemicals around (Read- Are Parabens In Cosmetics Safe To Use?), it is unsurprising that more and more consumers are looking at labels closely.
But is the ‘100% preservative free’ label on your skin cream as great as you think it is, or is it just a dangerous fad that could affect your health adversely?
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Why are preservatives used in skincare?
Water, the most commonly used ingredient in cosmetic products, readily grows microorganisms – additionally, ingredients like vitamins and lipids in cosmetics act as nutrients for them.
Preservatives are used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungus in cosmetic products and ensure that the product remains safe for consumers. Furthermore, every time you dip your fingers into your jar of cream or swipe the mascara wand on your eyelashes, you introduce microorganisms that, without a preservative, can cause the product to spoil.
Simply put, preservatives stop a product from ‘going bad.’
Why are preservatives in skin care considered a problem?
Commonly used preservatives are parabens and formaldehyde-releasing chemicals, both of which, in recent times, have been mired in controversy and are being increasingly abandoned by skin care companies.
Parabens have been implicated in breast cancer, female infertility, allergies, endocrine disruption, low birth weight, reduced height at birth, early puberty, etc.
(Read- Are Parabens In Cosmetics Safe To Use?)
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives have been linked to cancer and dermatitis. Formaldehyde also has the dubious distinction of being crowned the 2015 American Contact Dermatitis Society Contact Allergen of the Year. It has also been in the news for being the chemical used for embalming dead bodies.
However, not all preservatives come with such serious concerns. I have chosen to list paraben and formaldehyde releasers here for the simple reason that these are the most commonly used preservatives and also the ones that have faced the most scrutiny.
It is essential to remember that not all preservatives are bad, but play the important role of keeping skin care products safe for our use.
What should you look for in a ‘preservative-free’ label?
Does it not sound amazing? When the label reads ‘100% Preservative Free’.
However, these are the facts you should keep in mind before putting your faith in that claim.
Does it have water?
If it has water as an ingredient, it has to have a preservative. Any product that lists water as an ingredient and claims to be preservative-free is lying to you. Water is the source of life, and microorganisms thrive in it.
What else is considered water?
Ingredients like aloe vera, aloe vera gel, floral water, and hydrosol water are still considered water and will require a preservative.
Does it have oil?
The only way a product can be formulated without any preservative is if the product has 0% water and is comprised of 100% oil. These typically are products like body oils and balms. Products like cleansers, serums, and lotions will need a water base and thus cannot be preservative-free.
How to make the most of your preservative-free product?
Once you open a preservative-free product, note the following to increase its shelf life:
- Keep away from water- wet fingers, shower area, etc.
- Keep the lid screwed tight to protect it from the air.
- Store in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight.
- Where possible, buy small quantities.
- Be mindful of the expiration date and discard the product after the recommended time or when there are signs of spoilage like change in texture, color, or smell.
Beware of Greenwashing
Greenwashing is a marketing strategy in which a company makes unsubstantiated claims about their products to appear environment-friendly rather than actually making an effort to be one.
For example, it may simply decide not to list the preservative in its label, more so if the brand sells itself as ‘natural’.
This study found that even when formaldehyde was not listed as an ingredient, it was detectable in lab studies – Formaldehyde may be found in cosmetic products even when unlabelled.
Takeaway
- Preservative-free skin care is gaining popularity due to adverse effects associated with commonly used preservatives like paraben and formaldehyde-releasers.
- If there is water as an ingredient, it will require a preservative.
- Only formulations that are 100% oil-based can genuinely claim to be preservative-free.
- Handle preservative-free products with care to improve shelf-life.
- Not all preservatives are bad.
- Beware of Greenwashing!
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